Post by puppy on May 15, 2003 12:02:28 GMT -5
the abovementioned subject is one of the MOST MOST common illnesses rabbits will get...
got this from www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk/rwf/articles/skin.htm...
"Ringworm
Ringworm is not a worm at all, but a fungal infection. It gets it's name from the ring shaped lesions seen on the skin of infected humans. In rabbits, ringworm turns up as sores (no rings!) that are usually itchy and found around the head. Ringworm must be differentiated from other causes of scabs and sores, such as ordinary wounds.
Ringworm can be treated in two ways. The first option is antifungal ointment applied directly to the affected area. Secondly, antifungal medicine can be given by mouth. This works by becoming incorporated into the developing hair so that the fungus cannot survive. Treatment may take several weeks.
Ringworm is a zoonosis (a disease that can be transmitted from animal to human) so care should be taken when handling an infected rabbit until the lesion has healed.
Possible sources of infection include hay, soil, or the family cat. Rabbits can also catch ringworm from humans, so remember to protect bunny if any human member of the family comes home with ringworm after handling farm animals!
Cheyletiella mites
Cheyletiella is probably the most common skin problem in rabbits. If you've heard people referring to "mites", chances are this is what they were talking about. Some vets call it "mange mite".
The hallmark of Cheyletiella infection is a patch of dandruff in one particular area of the coat (often on the back, either above the tail or in the nape of the neck), although occasionally it can become much more extensive. It's also called "walking dandruff" because sometimes you can see the dandruff moving due to the activities of the mite! The creatures themselves are too small to be seen with the naked eye.
The mites themselves feed on keratin, which is why infestation tends to develop in areas where dead hair accumulates because they're trickly for bunny to groom thoroughly, namely the nape of the neck and just above the tail. So, if your rabbit has any condition that restricts it's ability to groom itself (dental problem, arthritis, sore hocks, poor balance, obesity), check particularly carefully for mites and seek veterinary advice about tackling the underlying problem.
The sources of Cheyletiella infection are hotly debated. Many vets suspect that many bunnies have low grade infestations that are not detectable at all until either something triggers the mite population to flare up from time to time, or the rabbit can no longer keep the mite population in check by effective grooming. Cheyletiella mites travel on hay, and can carry myxomatosis.
Treating Cheyletiella isn't usually difficult, but may take time. Grooming the areas of dandruff helps by removing the dead hair and dander upon which the mites feed, as does regular application of a cat flea powder. Some vets still treat this condition using medicated baths. This works, but bathing is stressful to bunnies and can be avoided by using other treatments.
Most rabbits vets treat Chyletiella infestation with a course of at least three ivermectin injections given at 7 to 10 day intervals. It's important to finish the course of treatment even if the condition seems to have disappeared. Although ivermectin isn't licensed for use in rabbits, it has been widely used for a number of years without any reported problems.
However, there have been recent developments in treating this condition and some rabbit vets are starting to utilise alternatives to ivermectin. For example, good results are being reported with "Stronghold", a drop-on insecticidal drug used in dogs. Stronghold is from the same chemical family as ivermectin, so it's a logical choice. On the other hand, rabbit deaths have been linked to "Frontline" (it's thought that the carrier chemicals are the problem, not the active ingredient, which is why some vets will use this drug on rabbits with careful dosing and great caution) and some experts feel that the safest option is to stick with the tried and tested ivermectin injections.
Cheyletiella can affect humans. Textbooks of human dermatology describe children developing a rash on their tummy that clears up when the pet is treated but we've yet to hear of a houserabbit owner being affected.
If your bunny develops problems with mites (or ringworm and fleas for that matter) you will need to treat the rabbit's home and bedding. Cheyletiella in particular can survive in the environment (e.g. hutches made from unsealed wood) and re-infect the bunny. Your vet will suggest suitable control strategies.
Fur mites
Fur mites are a separate condition to Cheyletiella and much less well known. They usually affect skin on the back towards the tail, and probably travel in hay and straw. Detailed information is difficult to find.
Fur mites are a bit bigger than Cheyletiella mites and can just be seen with the naked eye as tuny, moving specks. They appear as a contrasting colour to the fur - presumably they have two-tone body colours and you see the pale coloured part of the mite on dark coloured rabbits and vice versa!
Fur mites don't cause any problems in small numbers but they should respond to similar treatment as Cheyletiella.
Ear mites
The ear mite Psoroptes cuniculi is responsible for the condition also known as "canker". Mites invade the ear canal, where they cause intense irritation and result in production of a crusty exudate (discharge) from one or both ears. This condition is quite common in rescue bunnies.
The first signs are subtle: owners may notice their bunny scratching its ears or that the base of the ear is sore to handle. Within two weeks there will be an obvious grey-brown scaly crust within the ear itself. If left untreated, mites and exudate spill out onto the cheeks and neck, which looks as disgusting as it sounds.
Ear mites require treatment by a vet. This will probably consist of ivermectin injections to kill the mites plus topical applications to soften the exudate. Anti inflammatory drugs may be used, partly for pain relief.
Do alert the vet and ask for pain relief if you think your bunny is in pain. Antibiotics are sometimes required to control secondary bacterial infection and may be used either topically (directly to the ear) or systemically (injection or by mouth). Occasionally, the crusts are so painful that the poor bunny needs a general anaesthetic to remove them after a few days of treatment to soften up the crusts.
Fleas
Rabbit fleas are uncommon in domestic bunnies, but pet rabbits may be affected by dog and cat fleas. Consequently, flea control programmes in multi animal households should include the rabbit, particularly if any of the animals has an allergy to flea bites.
Fleas transmit myxomatosis: flea control as well as vaccination is needed to prevent this horrible disease. This is particularly important if you have a cat that roams outside. Cats that hunt wild rabbits sometimes come home with rabbit fleas on their face and attached to the edges of their ears.
Advantage, a flea-control drug made by Bayer, has recently (2001) been granted a licence for use in rabbits in the UK. This is a very welcome development, as previously there were no flea treatments licensed for use in rabbits. Advantage is a drop-on treatment. "
got the following info from www.vet-2-pet.com/rabbitwelfare/moulting.html...
"Fur Mites
Rabbits who are moulting heavily should be checked for fur mites. Take a close look at the skin, especially behind the ears and along the spine - if there is any scurf or dandruff, take your rabbit to the vet. Fur mites (usually Cheyletiella species) are common, and it’s important they are treated because they can cause dermatitis in humans. Most vets these days use a course of at least three ivermectin injections given at 7-10 day intervals until the condition is clear. This does away with the need for repeated bathing.
Do remember that the bedding and cage need to be treated too. Some rabbits have mites with no signs at all, so it’s worth looking out for "dandruff" whenever you stroke your rabbit. "
got more info about these mites here...
www.hrss.net/aar/health/health_furmites.html
www.hrss.net/aar/health/health_scabies.html
www.bigbunny.org/health/furmites.html
www.bio.miami.edu/hare/furloss.html
www.mybunny.org/info/mites.pdf
got this from www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk/rwf/articles/skin.htm...
"Ringworm
Ringworm is not a worm at all, but a fungal infection. It gets it's name from the ring shaped lesions seen on the skin of infected humans. In rabbits, ringworm turns up as sores (no rings!) that are usually itchy and found around the head. Ringworm must be differentiated from other causes of scabs and sores, such as ordinary wounds.
Ringworm can be treated in two ways. The first option is antifungal ointment applied directly to the affected area. Secondly, antifungal medicine can be given by mouth. This works by becoming incorporated into the developing hair so that the fungus cannot survive. Treatment may take several weeks.
Ringworm is a zoonosis (a disease that can be transmitted from animal to human) so care should be taken when handling an infected rabbit until the lesion has healed.
Possible sources of infection include hay, soil, or the family cat. Rabbits can also catch ringworm from humans, so remember to protect bunny if any human member of the family comes home with ringworm after handling farm animals!
Cheyletiella mites
Cheyletiella is probably the most common skin problem in rabbits. If you've heard people referring to "mites", chances are this is what they were talking about. Some vets call it "mange mite".
The hallmark of Cheyletiella infection is a patch of dandruff in one particular area of the coat (often on the back, either above the tail or in the nape of the neck), although occasionally it can become much more extensive. It's also called "walking dandruff" because sometimes you can see the dandruff moving due to the activities of the mite! The creatures themselves are too small to be seen with the naked eye.
The mites themselves feed on keratin, which is why infestation tends to develop in areas where dead hair accumulates because they're trickly for bunny to groom thoroughly, namely the nape of the neck and just above the tail. So, if your rabbit has any condition that restricts it's ability to groom itself (dental problem, arthritis, sore hocks, poor balance, obesity), check particularly carefully for mites and seek veterinary advice about tackling the underlying problem.
The sources of Cheyletiella infection are hotly debated. Many vets suspect that many bunnies have low grade infestations that are not detectable at all until either something triggers the mite population to flare up from time to time, or the rabbit can no longer keep the mite population in check by effective grooming. Cheyletiella mites travel on hay, and can carry myxomatosis.
Treating Cheyletiella isn't usually difficult, but may take time. Grooming the areas of dandruff helps by removing the dead hair and dander upon which the mites feed, as does regular application of a cat flea powder. Some vets still treat this condition using medicated baths. This works, but bathing is stressful to bunnies and can be avoided by using other treatments.
Most rabbits vets treat Chyletiella infestation with a course of at least three ivermectin injections given at 7 to 10 day intervals. It's important to finish the course of treatment even if the condition seems to have disappeared. Although ivermectin isn't licensed for use in rabbits, it has been widely used for a number of years without any reported problems.
However, there have been recent developments in treating this condition and some rabbit vets are starting to utilise alternatives to ivermectin. For example, good results are being reported with "Stronghold", a drop-on insecticidal drug used in dogs. Stronghold is from the same chemical family as ivermectin, so it's a logical choice. On the other hand, rabbit deaths have been linked to "Frontline" (it's thought that the carrier chemicals are the problem, not the active ingredient, which is why some vets will use this drug on rabbits with careful dosing and great caution) and some experts feel that the safest option is to stick with the tried and tested ivermectin injections.
Cheyletiella can affect humans. Textbooks of human dermatology describe children developing a rash on their tummy that clears up when the pet is treated but we've yet to hear of a houserabbit owner being affected.
If your bunny develops problems with mites (or ringworm and fleas for that matter) you will need to treat the rabbit's home and bedding. Cheyletiella in particular can survive in the environment (e.g. hutches made from unsealed wood) and re-infect the bunny. Your vet will suggest suitable control strategies.
Fur mites
Fur mites are a separate condition to Cheyletiella and much less well known. They usually affect skin on the back towards the tail, and probably travel in hay and straw. Detailed information is difficult to find.
Fur mites are a bit bigger than Cheyletiella mites and can just be seen with the naked eye as tuny, moving specks. They appear as a contrasting colour to the fur - presumably they have two-tone body colours and you see the pale coloured part of the mite on dark coloured rabbits and vice versa!
Fur mites don't cause any problems in small numbers but they should respond to similar treatment as Cheyletiella.
Ear mites
The ear mite Psoroptes cuniculi is responsible for the condition also known as "canker". Mites invade the ear canal, where they cause intense irritation and result in production of a crusty exudate (discharge) from one or both ears. This condition is quite common in rescue bunnies.
The first signs are subtle: owners may notice their bunny scratching its ears or that the base of the ear is sore to handle. Within two weeks there will be an obvious grey-brown scaly crust within the ear itself. If left untreated, mites and exudate spill out onto the cheeks and neck, which looks as disgusting as it sounds.
Ear mites require treatment by a vet. This will probably consist of ivermectin injections to kill the mites plus topical applications to soften the exudate. Anti inflammatory drugs may be used, partly for pain relief.
Do alert the vet and ask for pain relief if you think your bunny is in pain. Antibiotics are sometimes required to control secondary bacterial infection and may be used either topically (directly to the ear) or systemically (injection or by mouth). Occasionally, the crusts are so painful that the poor bunny needs a general anaesthetic to remove them after a few days of treatment to soften up the crusts.
Fleas
Rabbit fleas are uncommon in domestic bunnies, but pet rabbits may be affected by dog and cat fleas. Consequently, flea control programmes in multi animal households should include the rabbit, particularly if any of the animals has an allergy to flea bites.
Fleas transmit myxomatosis: flea control as well as vaccination is needed to prevent this horrible disease. This is particularly important if you have a cat that roams outside. Cats that hunt wild rabbits sometimes come home with rabbit fleas on their face and attached to the edges of their ears.
Advantage, a flea-control drug made by Bayer, has recently (2001) been granted a licence for use in rabbits in the UK. This is a very welcome development, as previously there were no flea treatments licensed for use in rabbits. Advantage is a drop-on treatment. "
got the following info from www.vet-2-pet.com/rabbitwelfare/moulting.html...
"Fur Mites
Rabbits who are moulting heavily should be checked for fur mites. Take a close look at the skin, especially behind the ears and along the spine - if there is any scurf or dandruff, take your rabbit to the vet. Fur mites (usually Cheyletiella species) are common, and it’s important they are treated because they can cause dermatitis in humans. Most vets these days use a course of at least three ivermectin injections given at 7-10 day intervals until the condition is clear. This does away with the need for repeated bathing.
Do remember that the bedding and cage need to be treated too. Some rabbits have mites with no signs at all, so it’s worth looking out for "dandruff" whenever you stroke your rabbit. "
got more info about these mites here...
www.hrss.net/aar/health/health_furmites.html
www.hrss.net/aar/health/health_scabies.html
www.bigbunny.org/health/furmites.html
www.bio.miami.edu/hare/furloss.html
www.mybunny.org/info/mites.pdf
That might help ur bunnies,Namly is a good clinic to consult as well.. 
